When you think about Carnival in Brazil, you probably think of Rio and its Carnival Parade. Thousands of pictures of samba schools are broadcast worldwide as well as the parade itself. During Carnival days, the Sambadrome and Rio become the perfect scenario for the so-called “biggest show in the world”.

Talking about samba schools. Samba schools (generally speaking, not only in Rio) were mostly founded thanks to the collaboration of neighbors who wanted to attend carnival. As time passed by, the happening turned (in Rio and in São Paulo) into a very special industry, so that people from the communities earn their money from Carnival, working for this one day (the day of the parade) during the whole year.

During carnival, samba schools' purpose is to compete with fellow rival schools; this happens during the parade. The competition is the climax of the whole carnival festival. A different theme is chosen by each school. To win, samba schools have to work not only to build the best floats and costumes but also to compose the best music and to move perfectly on the Sambadrome, sometimes even with choreographic dances in fancy costumes, in order to represent the story of the elected theme.

There is a special order that every school has to follow with their parade entries, as well as important roles of the porta-bandeira and mestre-sala, the passistas, baianas, and so on. The “allegoric floats” are also very important and most of the time very luxurious, once they carry the “destaques”, calling immediately the attention of the public that is watching the parade.

Street carnival. It is not mandatory to join the parade on the Sambadrome; you can attend the balls that are held in Copacabana Palace and beach, or be part of the very funny street festivals, which are filled by the locals. Anyone is allowed to participate in the street festivals, where irreverence, dancing and fun are the main ingredients.

[Português]

Para a marioria dos estrangeiros, o carnaval do Rio de Janeiro é sinônimo de carnaval no Brasil. Fotos, reportagens e relatos correm o mundo nesta época do ano, estarrecendo quem durante o Ano só ouve a palavra “Rio” relacionada a notícias envolvendo violência e morte. É no Carnaval que a cidade “que continua linda” vira o cenário perfeito para o “maior espetáculo da Terra”, atraindo milhares de turistas.

Mas nem todos virão ao Sambódromo.

A partir das duas semanas anteriores ao carnaval e nos dias de carnaval, blocos e bandas invadem as ruas da cidade maravilhosa, carregando dezenas de milhares de foliões. A cidade vira um grande baile popular sem cordas, aberto a quem quiser chegar. Rio de Janeiro e Salvador brigam anualmente pelo título de maior carnaval de rua do mundo.

Quem não gosta de carnaval de rua pode optar por algum dos bailes e clubes. Alguns são mais voltados para a classe alta, outros para as classes mais baixas. Há também bailes populares, organizados pela prefeitura e abertos ao público em determinadas áreas tradicionais da cidade, como a Cinelândia e em bairros do subúrbio como Madureira.

Outra dica para quem gosta da espontaneidade do Carnaval de rua é ir ao Rio antes do Carnaval. Como assim? Em dezembro as escolas de samba da cidade passam a realizar os chamados "ensaios técnicos" no Sambódromo. Nesses “desfiles”, o canto, a evolução e o ritmo são os elementos principais, o que atrai a população da cidade e arredores, fazendo do ensaio uma festa à parte,atraindo cada vez mais o interesse de turistas que desejam assistir e participar de um carnaval essencialmente popular.

[English]

You might have said “Italy” or “Germany” thinking about the popular festivals of Venice and Cologne, but most of the people asked would instinctively say  “Brazil”.

And they aren't wrong. We Brazilians tend to say (and hear) that the year in Brazil really begins only after Carnival. Surely the country keeps functioning before, but somehow as a Brazilian you have the feeling there's something missing. It's because Carnival hasn't passed yet. The Carnival is the last breath of the official summer vacations. Subconsciously we all know that there's a hard working life full of daily duties just waiting for us. Once Carnival is over.

In Brazil the festivities have become an event of huge proportions. Some parts of the country seem to stop completely for a week while people massively celebrate day and night. According to statistics, during these few days tourism receives 70% of annual visitors and the consumption of beer accounts for 80% of the annual quote. Hundreds of thousands condoms are distributed by the government to prevent AIDS and some special campaigns are made focusing on this critical period of the year.

Though the parades in Rio and Bahia are the most famous ones, attracting tourists from all over the world, the ways of celebrating Carnival in Brazil are as variable as the country itself. That's why here in Lexiophiles we will try to present you some aspects of the Brazilian Carnival that are hardly broadcast abroad.

Don't worry though: we won't ignore Rio. The so-called “biggest spectacle on earth!” is unavoidable when this topic comes about. Even if you don't like Carnival at all, just like me.

Carnival in Pernambuco's style

Pernambuco has unique Carnivals: the most famous ones are in the capital Recife and in its colonial capital Olinda - partly influenced by Venice Carnival, mixed with cultural depictions of local folklore.

Their main rhythms are the frevo, ciranda (dancers stand on their hands and dance in a circle) and the maracatu.

In Pernambuco's capital the Carnival begins with the Galo da Madrugada ("dawn's rooster"), which is the biggest carnival parade in the world (considering the number of participants), according to The Guinness Book of World Records. While Salvador and Rio include competitions in their festivities, Recife, Olinda and other cities in Pernambuco don't. There are hundreds of small musical groups dancing and playing instruments side by side. In Olinda, Carnival is a popular street party, similar to traditional Portuguese carnivals, with the participation of the remarkable Giant Dolls. The Carnival in Pernambuco lasts longer: celebrations and maracatus begin one week before the official Carnival time and end a week later.

[Português]

Se você não é brasileiro, ou é brasileiro e achou que a pergunta é uma “pegadinha”, talvez tenha pensado em responder “Alemanha” ou “Itália” (lembrando-se dos carnavais famosos de Colônia ou Veneza). Mas a verdade é que quando confrontadas com essa pergunta, a maioria das pessoas – mesmo estrangeiros – não reflete duas vezes antes de dizer “Brasil”.

E quem pensa assim não está 100% errado. Nós brasileiros costumamos ouvir e repetir: no Brasil, o ano começa mesmo é depois do Carnaval. Não que nada funcione antes, pelo contrário. No entanto, os festejos carnavalescos são para muitos como o último suspiro das férias de verão. A última festa antes de encarar meses a fio de dias estafantes, repletos de obrigações.

No Brasil o Carnaval atingiu proporções gigantescas: o país recebe, apenas neste período, cerca de 70% dos turistas que visitam a terrinha no ano inteiro. Cresce substancialmente também o consumo de bebidas alcoólicas (cerveja) e, para não fugir do clichê, preservativos. A cada ano o governo lança uma nova campanha para impedir o avanço da AIDS e de outras DSTs (doenças sexualmente transmissíveis), cujo número de incidências decola neste período.

O Carnaval é imenso e variado como o país. Embora os carnavais do Rio e da Bahia sejam os mais famosos no exterior, há muitas outras formas de celebrar Carnaval no Brasil. Por isso, o Lexiophilles vai tentar fugir um pouco do óbvio e apresentar outras facetas do carnaval brasileiro para seus fiéis leitores.

Não, nós não vamos esquecer o carnaval no Rio, não se preocupe. O maior “espetáculo da Terra” é sempre inesquecível, mesmo pela televisão. E mesmo para alguém que não gosta nem um pouco de Carnaval, como a autora deste artigo.

Carnaval de Pernambuco

Não há um, mas vários carnavais em Pernambuco. Os mais conhecidos são os de Recife, capital do Estado, e Olinda, capital colonial. O Carnaval de Olinda é único: mistura tradição italiana do Carnaval de Veneza com influências afro. Já na capital pernambucana o carnaval começa com o Galo da Madrugada que é considerado, nada mais nada menos do que o maior bloco de Carnaval do Mundo, de acordo com o Guiness.

Ao contrário do carnaval carioca e baiano, no carnaval pernambucano não há competição. Blocos diferentes dançam e tocam nas ruas lado a lado. Em Olinda, o Carnaval é uma grande festa de rua, -guardando semelhanças com o antigo carnaval português – coroada com a participação dos incríveis bonecos gigantes. Os ritmos do carnaval por lá são o frevo, a ciranda e o maracatu.

Para alegria dos foliões, em Pernambuco o sonho do Carnaval dura mais: inicia alguns dias antes e termina apenas uma semana depois do fim “oficial” da festa.

[English]

In Germany, the most famous Carnival is celebrated in the city of Cologne. Also called “the fifth season”, it officially begins every year on November 11 at 11:11. Then the carnival's organizing committee gathers and organizes all the carnival festivities. It's worth getting involved in this carnival, both the city and the people of Cologne are amusing, happy and eager to celebrate.

The Cologne Carnival is a colorful festival where millions of people get excited and involved, walk through the streets in their best costumes to celebrate with friends and family while watching the parades made up of huge puppets that mock political figures or a negative event that the public is dissatisfied with. As the they parade through the streets, they throw chips and chocolates to the public. The bars and places are filled with happy people ready to drink the typical Kölsch beer of Cologne, while singing and dancing.

The celebration of Carnival in Cologne is one of the largest in Europe. They call it the crazy three days, starting on Thursday before Lent and ending the following Tuesday with the bonfire of the carnival spirit which symbolizes the amendment of the sins committed during the carnival season. Carnival Monday is called Rosenmontag and it corresponds to the 42nd day before Easter.

The celebration of Carnival in Cologne began in 1341 with three characters: Seine Tollität (Carnival Prince), Bauer (peasant) and Jungfrau (Virgin). Nowadays the Virgin role is represented by a man.

The most famous carnival parade is called Prinzengarde, where the carnival prince makes an appearance accompanied with his bodyguards, who wear uniforms from 1800s that symbolize the anti-militarist tradition of the city.

In Germany, Carnival is also traditionally held in Münster, Düsseldorf, Aachen and Mainz.

What do you like about the carnival in Cologne?

[Español]

En Alemania el carnaval más famoso se celebra en la ciudad de Colonia. La quinta estación como también se le llama inicia oficialmente el día 11 de noviembre de cada año a las 11h11. Hora en la que el comité organizador del carnaval se reúne y organiza todas las festividades del carnaval. Vale la pena participar de este carnaval, tanto la ciudad como los habitantes de Colonia que son personas divertías, alegres y con muchas ganas de festejar.

El carnaval de Colonia es una festividad muy colorida donde millones de personas se entusiasman y participan, salen a las calles con sus mejores disfraces a celebrar con amigos mientras que observan los carros alegóricos que se conforman por enormes muñecos que hacen burla a personajes políticos o ya sea algún acontecimiento negativo que la población no esté conforme. Estás carrozas mientras desfilan por las calles arrojan pastillas y chocolates al público. Los bares y lugares se llenan de gente feliz dispuesta a tomar Kölsch la cerveza típica de Colonia, cantando y bailando.

La celebración del carnaval en Colonia es uno de los más grandes de Europa. Le llaman los tres días locos iniciando el jueves de carnaval con el Altweiberfastnacht y finalizando el martes siguiente con la quema del espíritu del carnaval simbolizando la enmienda de los pecados cometidos durante la temporada del carnaval. Lunes de carnaval se llama el Rosenmontag que corresponde al día 42 antes del inicio de la Pascua.

La festividad del carnaval en Colonia inicio en 1341 y era conformado por Seine Tollittдt, el príncipe del carnaval, por Bauer el campesino y por Jungfrau que es la virgen. En la actualidad el papel de la virgen es representado por un hombre.

El desfile más famoso del carnaval es el llamado Prinzengarde, donde el príncipe del carnaval hace su aparición acompañado de su guardia personal, que llevan uniformes del año 1800 y simbolizan la tradición anti-militarista de la ciudad.

En Alemania además de Colonia se el carnaval se celebra tradicionalmente en Münster, Mainz Düsseldorf y Aachen.

¿Qué es lo que más te gusta del carnaval de Colonia?

[English]

Nach unseren Artikeln deutschen Filmen und deutschen Studenten nun passend zum Anlass (seit kurzem findet im Süden von Deutschland wieder das größte Volksfest der Welt statt) eine kleine Auflistung der wohl beliebtesten Veranstaltungen für Touristen in Deutschland. Natürlich ist das nur meine persönliche Sicht, allerdings sind diese drei Termine wohl auch die meistbesuchten Veranstaltungen in ganz Deutschland (außer, wenn mal wieder Fußball-WM ist, aber das ist ja auch nur alle vier Jahre):

1. Das Oktoberfest (18.September 2010 bis 04. Oktober 2010)
Das Münchner Oktoberfest hat sich schon längst zu einer Kultveranstaltung entwickelt. Mit jährlich über 6. Millionen Besuchern, sind die „Münchener Wiesn“ das größte Volksfest weltweit. Hier ist nicht die Frage, wer zu dieser Zeit zufällig in München ist und mal vorbeischauen will, sondern man sollte sich eher frühzeitig darum kümmern überhaupt noch eine Bleibe während den zwei Festwochen in der schönen Stadt an der Isar zu finden. Zum Oktoberfest gibt es unter Oktoberfest.de weitere Informationen - Wer außerhalb der Festtage die größte Stadt Bayerns besuchen will, findet hier eine Übersicht zu allen Veranstaltungen in München

2. Karneval in Köln (11. November 2010 bis 09. März 2011)
In Köln beginnt Karneval am 11.11. und endet knappe 4 Monate später am Aschermittwoch. Die Hochzeit des karnevalistischen Treibens findet in der letzten Woche statt, beginnend mit Weiberfastnacht am Donnerstag. Man muss es einfach selber erlebt haben - also definitiv eine Empfehlung wert. Allein am Rosenmontagszug werden 140 Tonnen Süßigkeiten, Blumen, Stoffpuppen und andere Präsente als Wurfmittel verwendet (Quelle: Wikipedia). Insgesamt sehen sich über 1 Mio. Menschen den regelmäßigen Straßenzug an. Alle weiteren Termine zum Karneval in Köln findest du hier.

3. Weihnachtsmärkte (Ende November - Ende Dezember)
Für viele ist es die schönste Zeit des Jahres. Ende November eröffnen die ersten Weihnachtsmärkte in den deutschen Städten. Fast jede Stadt hat mittlerweile ihren eigenen Markt und meist sind auch die der kleinen Städte gemütlicher als die großen. Es wird Glühwein getrunken, gegessen und vielleicht schon das ein oder andere Geschenk für Heilig Abend besorgt. In großen Städten wie Köln oder München gibt es gleichzeitig mehrere Weihnachtsmärkte, damit man dem großen Ansturm gerecht werden kann. Bereits im letzten Jahr hat der Spiegel darüber berichtet, dass sich der Weihnachtsmarkt regelrecht zum Exportschlager entwickelt. Hat man Verwandtschaft oder Freunde in Deutschland, lohnt sich ein Besuch zu dieser Zeit auf jeden Fall. Hier findet ihr eine Übersicht zu Weihnachtsmärkten in Köln, Berlin, München und Hamburg. Mein derzeitiger persönlicher Favorit ist der Weihnachtsmarkt auf der Fleetinsel in Hamburg.

Fehlt eine Veranstaltung, die man als Deutschland-Reisender auf keinen Fall verpassen darf? Ergänzt die Liste in den Kommentaren.

As mentioned in the previous article about Carnival in Salvador, some blocos don’t have abadás but special costumes related to a theme. Here are some of them:

Afoxés
The afoxés appeared around 1895. People who take part in blocos afoxés (or simply Afoxé) are usually related to Candomblé, an afro-brazilian religion quite popular in Salvador. They wear African-inspired costumes and sing and dance to the sound of a rhythm called Ijexá. The songs generally praise candomblé deities and are played with musical instruments such as atabaque and agogô. Before the beginning of their Carnival parade, the blocos afoxés celebrate some religious rituals of Candomblé.

One of the most popular Afoxé is the "Filhos de Gandhy" (Sons of Gandhi). As the name suggests, this Afoxé is a tribute to the Indian pacifist Mahatma Gandhi. Around 10,000 men take part in this bloco (women are not allowed to do so). They wear white turbans and costumes and necklaces made of white and blue beads. People who are not from "Filhos de Gandhy", especially girls  go crazy trying to get one of those necklaces, which are a symbol of peace and blessings during the year.

Travestidos
This bloco is composed by men who go through the carnival parade dressed as women. They are not transvestites and only cross-dress during carnival for this specific organization. The official day of the blocos travestidos in carnival is Saturday. They are usually formed by groups of friends and acquaintances and have about three thousand members - the most famous of them is As Muquiranas. Its members have paraded dressed in the most irreverent costumes, such as the cartoon female hero She-Ra.

Afro
Blocos Afro represent the African culture which is so outstanding in the city of Salvador. Through their dances, music and costumes they demonstrate and pay homage to the important contributions made by African people to Brazilian culture and identity, fighting back prejudice and racism.

Several blocos Afro are known worldwide either for their parades or for the bands that represent them. The oldest bloco Afro is Ilê Aiyê, founded in 1974. It is sung by Daniela Mercury as o mais belo dos belos (the most beautiful of all) in a pretty song you can listen to here. Other blocos Afro are Araketu, Olodum, Malê Debal, Muzenza and Cortejo Afro. I’ve been in Cortejo Afro for the carnival some years ago - its energy is amazing and its costumes are greatly designed by the talented artist Alberto Pitta.

Have a great time and enjoy yourselves in Carnival!

[Português]

Como foi dito no último artigo sobre o carnaval de Salvador, alguns blocos não desfilam com abadás, mas com fantasias típicas ou temáticas. Estes são alguns deles:

Afoxés
Os blocos afoxés surgiram por volta de 1895. Seus foliões geralmente fazem parte do candomblé e desfilam com trajes de inspiração africana, cantando e dançando no ritmo musical Ijexá. As músicas geralmente saúdam e louvam os orixás e são ritmadas por instrumentos como atabaque e agogô. Antes do começo do desfile dos blocos afoxé ocorre um ritual religioso do candomblé.

Um dos mais conhecidos blocos de Afoxé é o "Filhos de Gandhy". Como o nome sugere, o afoxé homenageia o pacifista indiano Mahatma Gandhi . Os cerca de 10.000 foliões são exclusivamente homens, que desfilam vestindo fantasias brancas com turbantes e usando colares de contas brancas e azuis. Os colares são disputados por quem está fora do bloco, em especial pelas mulheres. Eles simbolizam o desejo de paz durante o carnaval e ao longo do ano.

Travestidos
Os blocos de travestidos , como o próprio nome diz, são compostos por homens vestidos e caracterizados como mulheres. Eles desfilam no sábado de carnaval, colorindo a rua com sua irreverência e seus trajes espalhafatosos. Geralmente são formados por grupos de amigos e conhecidos, e têm cerca de três mil foliões. O mais famoso deles, As Muquiranas, que já desfilou com temas como a heroína de desenho animado She-Ra.

Afro
Os blocos afro foram representam a cultura africana tão marcante na cidade de Salvador. Através da dança, da música e dos trajes os blocos afro demonstram e homenageiam as contribuições dos africanos na formação da identidade brasileira, lutando contra o preconceito e racismo.
Diversos blocos afro são conhecidos no Brasil e no mundo, seja por seus desfiles ou pelas bandas que os representam. O mais antigo deles é o Ilê Aiyê , fundado em 1974 e cantado por Daniela Mercury como o mais belo dos belos numa linda canção que você pode ouvir aqui. Outros blocos afro são: Araketu, Olodum, Malê Debalê, Muzenza e Cortejo Afro . Já desfilei neste último, que tem uma energia contagiante e lindas fantasias idealizadas pelo talentoso artista Alberto Pitta.

Ótimo Carnaval para todos. Divirtam-se!

[English]

Brazil is famous all over the world for its carnival. Last year we published an article about it with an emphasis on the samba school carnivals, that happen mainly in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. Another kind of Brazilian carnival is the one of Bahia, with trios elétricos and blocos de carnaval. In Salvador, the capital of Bahia, carnival attracts national and international tourists and makes the city even more lively and colorful for six days.

During carnival, that is from Thursday to Tuesday, there are more than two million people and about 230 carnival organizations around the city. These organizations are composed of blocos de carnaval divided into categories such as: afoxés, afros, trio, indigenous and cross-dressed. Blocos de carnaval (carnival blocks) are street bands and groups. To take part in one of them people have to buy a costume which is called an abadá - it is a set of colorful shorts and t-shirt.

But why do people buy abadás to take part in a bloco? The answer is to see and follow their favourite singer or band singing on the top of a trio elétrico. Trio elétrico (electrical trio) was created by Dodo and Osmar in 1950 and is a huge truck with an advanced and powerful sound system that works as a moving stage. Describing it is not enough to picture the real thing. You can only understand what a trio elétrico is by seeing and listening to one. I'm from Bahia and I can say that people who are born there and enjoy the carnival can’t stand still when a trio elétrico passes by. Brazilian composer and singer Caetano Veloso defines this feeling perfectly when he sings: “atrás do trio elétrico só não vai quem já morreu”, which means something like “the only ones who don’t follow the trio are those who are already dead”.

Singers and bands go on top of the trio playing Brazilian rhythms such as samba-reggae, axé, samba, pagode. The most famous singers and bands playing in carnival nowadays are Ivete Sangalo, Chiclete com Banana, Banda Eva, Asa de Águia, Cheiro de Amor, Timbalada, Daniela Mercury and Claudia Leitte.

Carnival in Salvador happens on the streets. A thick rope (corda in Portuguese) is held by men and women named cordeiros, meaning the ones who hold the rope. The cordeiros hold a thick rope to separate people with abadá from those who are without it and therefore out of the bloco and inside the area called pipoca. Abadás are expensive, so many people enjoy carnival from the pipoca (Portuguese for popcorn - because people behave like popcorn being cooked - jumping and dancing all the time). Celebrating carnival in the pipoca is not peaceful or safe, but if you choose a good place to stay, pointed out by someone who knows the city and the party and if you do not take anything in your pockets, pipoca can be pretty fun. In fact, your money should be well hidden and never in your pockets no matter where you choose to be in carnival.

Some people neither take part in a bloco nor go to pipoca. They go to camarotes, which are like cubicles or rooms lined in high steel structures so that whoever is there has a privileged view. Camarotes are regarded to be safer and more comfortable than pipoca or bloco. In my opinion, however, there’s nothing better than following the trio - it's much more exciting!

By the way,  some blocos don’t have abadás but their own special costumes. You can read more about them next week.

[Português]